It’s now 0500 on day 3 of my Camino Frances and everything I read about sleep deprivation due to snoring in the dorms has become a reality.
Thankfully the aubergue Chu and I are staying in has a lounge downstairs, and as it sounds like 3 freight trains are roaring through our dorm, I’ve come down to write.
I’d been lucky the first 3 nights – no snorers, but we hit the jackpot last night.
Ah such is life on the Camino.
Whilst the snoring, blisters and physical exhaustion are the difficult elements of walking the Camino, the camaraderie, scenery and personal gratification inspires and drives your determination to push through.
Walking over the Pyrenees on Day 1 attested to that. To say it was physically challenging is an understatement. At times, during the toughest inclines I felt like one of those marathon runners who on seeing the finish line, collapse.
My legs felt as though they’d turned to jelly, I felt dizzy and at times, was on the verge of vomiting. But despite the discomfort, something was pushing me up those mountains. Was it spiritual or simple determination? I don’t know.
Despite the challenges, Chu and I limped into Roncesvalles 10 hours after leaving Saint Jean.
Chu is a wonderful lady from California who I met on my first day in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Something clicked and we just started walking together. Chu is doing the entire Camino and as I can only do part of it due to flight changes, we will soon part ways.
She’s such a warm, funny woman with a wealth of trekking knowledge and walking together seems to fit us both well. We’re both independent woman who enjoy our own company, and over these last two, oh so tough days, we’ve been a huge support to each other. We walk comfortably in silence, neither of us feeling the need to fill that silence, which is quite rare when you first meet. At different times we’ve walked ahead of each other, knowing that we’ll reconnect somewhere along the track. It’s comforting to know someone’s ‘got your back’ but also comforting knowing we’re walking our own Camino.
After our tough climb over the Pyrenees, Day 2 was supposed to be a little easier. And it well could’ve been if our bodies were not trying to recover from the Pyrenees climb. Day 2 presented different challenges, our bodies hurt, we’d both developed blisters, which made the rocky terrain difficult.
We walked with pain, yet we also walked with laughter.
Day 2 took us through rural farmlands where there’s an abundance of sheep, cows and horses, many of whom wear large bells that filter a sense of calm across the Spanish landscape.
Yesterday whilst walking through a thickly forested area we could hear the calming bell somewhere nearby. As we rounded a corner, a horse appeared. It was grazing about 3 metres from the path. We were not concerned or afraid. But within a few minutes another 5 joined the bell wearing leader. Again we were not too concerned and continued past them and on our way.
Before long we heard the bell not too far away and on turning around, we saw our new friends we now sauntering along the path behind us. If we stopped they stopped. If we didn’t they got closer. I’m guessing their feet didn’t hurt as they walked quite a bit quicker.
But their pace picked up and they were soon right behind us. We tried stepping off the path behind a tree, but again, when we stopped so did they.
They followed us for quite some time until Chu decided to hide behind a tree to let them pass. She said they must have got a whiff of her just as they got to ‘her’ tree, as they turned on their hooves and bolted in the opposite direction.
So alongside the snoring, aching bodies and blisters, the laughter has been in abundance. There’s also the wonderful camaraderie. So many interesting people with interesting stories to tell.
The Camino stirs many emotions and despite the physical hardship Im grateful to be having this incredible experience.