Category: life

life, travel

alongside the snoring, aching bodies and blisters, laughter is in abundance …

stanley & bear

It’s now 0500 on day 3 of my Camino Frances and everything I read about sleep deprivation due to snoring in the dorms has become a reality.

Upstairs in our dorm room, it sounds like 3 freight trains are roaring through the room. My earplugs seem to have no resistance against the cacophony, so knowing there’s no chance of sleep, I’ve come downstairs, bought a coffee from the vending machine and curled up on the couch to write in the cosy, common loungeroom.

And as I write, I reflect on how the snoring, blisters and physical exhaustion are difficult elements of walking the Camino. Yet the camaraderie, scenery and personal gratification inspires and drives your determination to push through.

Walking over the Pyrenees on Day 1 attested to that. To say it was physically challenging is an understatement. During the toughest inclines, my legs were like jelly, I felt dizzy and at times, was on the verge of vomiting. But despite the discomfort, something was pushing me up those mountains. Was it spiritual or simple determination: I don’t know?

Despite the challenges, Chu and I limped into Roncesvalles 10 hours after leaving Saint Jean.

Chu is a wonderful lady from California who I met on my first day in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Something clicked and we just started walking together. Chu is doing the entire Camino and as I can only do part of it due to flight changes, we will soon part ways.

She’s such a warm, funny woman with a wealth of trekking knowledge and walking together seems to fit us both well. We’re both independent woman who enjoy our own company, and over these last two, oh so tough days, we’ve been a huge support to each other. We walk comfortably in silence, neither of us feeling the need to fill that silence, which is quite rare when you first meet. At different times we’ve walked ahead of each other, knowing that we’ll reconnect somewhere along the track. It’s comforting to know someone’s ‘got your back’ but also comforting knowing we’re walking our own Camino.

After our tough climb over the Pyrenees, Day 2 was supposed to be a little easier. And it well could’ve been if our bodies were not trying to recover from the Pyrenees climb. Day 2 presented different challenges, our bodies hurt, we’d both developed blisters, which made the rocky terrain difficult.

We walked with pain, yet we also walked with laughter.

Day 2 took us through rural farmlands where there’s an abundance of sheep, cows and horses, many of whom wear large bells that filter a sense of calm across the Spanish landscape.

Yesterday whilst walking through a thickly forested area we could hear the calming bell somewhere nearby. As we rounded a corner, a horse appeared. It was grazing about 3 metres from the path. We were not concerned or afraid. But within a few minutes another 5 joined their bell wearing leader. Again we were not too concerned and continued past them and on our way.

Before long we heard the bell jingling close by, and on turning around, we saw our new friends now sauntering along the path behind us. We stopped, thinking they would just keep moving on, but no, as we stopped, so did they. They watched us curiously and as we started walking again they followed suit, yet as they walked quite a bit faster (they obviously didn’t have blisters) they got closer.  Before we realised they were soon right behind us. We tried stepping off the path to let them pass, but again, when we stopped, they did too. And when they did, they simply waited and watched with an occasional munch on a wayward piece of grass.

This went on for about an hour until Chu decided we ‘hide’ behind a tree to let them pass. So on finding a thick tree that seemingly hid us well (and safely I might add) we waited. Our new friends sauntered closer, yet to our surprise, just as they arrived at our tree, they turned on their hooves and bolted in the opposite direction never to be seen again. We were left somewhat perplexed at this sudden change, yet also found it highly amusing.

So alongside the snoring, aching bodies and blisters, the laughter has been in abundance.

The Camino stirs many emotions and despite the physical hardship I’m grateful to be having this incredible experience.

life

One night in Shanghai…

stanley & bear

There’s always a downside to travelling: long flights and long layovers.

  • Sometimes they afford wonderful opportunities and experiences, whilst on the flip side, they can leave you incredibly frustrated.

  • In my case it was the latter.

    Having 17 hours between flights in Shanghai the best thing to do was get a hotel. And according to Booking.com there are an abundance of reasonable hotels within 10 minutes of the airport.

    With a few clicks, my bed for the night was sorted, as was the free shuttle. All I had to do was get off the flight, get on the shuttle and then get into bed: perfect.

    But like all best laid plans, it often takes only one element to fail and everything turns proverbially pear shaped.

    My failed element was the shuttle. Yep, it wasn’t there.

    Not one to be daunted easily I simply walked over to the info desk where a lovely young girl happily offered to call the hotel.

    Enter problem number two. The number on my booking.com booking was not connected.

    ‘Sorry, number not work, you get taxi…’

    Ok so be it, taxi it is. Still undeterred I asked her to check how far and the approximate cost of the taxi. As any experienced traveller will tell you, unsuspecting tourists often get slogged for small taxi fares. Better to err on the side of caution.

    ‘Ten minute only, 60 RMB…’she said dismissing with a wave of her hand. Obviously I’d used up all my free questions, so off I went in search of the taxi rank.

    It wasn’t hard to find and after being directed to the next taxi, I showed my driver the hotel address, which was also in Chinese. With much nodding and hand waving, there was some semblance of assurance that I was on my way and I felt mildly confident that I’d soon be enjoying a hot shower and a warm bed.

    There was no doubt I was on my way, just apparently not to my hotel and my supposed 10 minute ride quickly became 30. I suppose I should’ve been grateful for the tour of Pudong and to have met a few lovely hotel receptionists at the ‘wrong’ hotels we stopped at, but fatigue and frustration had started to take over.

    Clearly my driver had no idea and just when I was about to try and get him to head back to the airport, he started gibbering excitedly and was gesturing toward a brightly lit building.

    ‘Jie Jia, Jie Jia…’ he shouted gleefully behind his plastic driver protection screen, whilst animatedly pointing at a brightly lit building.

    Apparently, we’d finally arrived.

    Thirty minutes and a hot shower later, I sat on the bed and had a little giggle to myself. Yep, travel certainly presents challenges that can result in frustration, but I guess it comes down to how we let those challenges affect us.

    Sometimes you just have to let it ride over you and smile.

    P.S

    And on the plus side of my soirée in Shanghai. Meeting fantastic China Eastern crew and two hilariously funny Chinese tourists whilst waiting in line to board the flight to Paris. They were in the 70’s, thought I was Russian, then on finding out I was on my own, Australian and walking across Spain, I became their hero 🤣🤣🤣. I could easily dedicate an entire post to them …

    Fabulous China Eastern crew – checking out 1st Class

    life, photography

    The many faces of isobella…

    stanley & bear

    A number of years ago I was introduced to a young girl who volunteered to be my model whilst I was studying. In the years following that meeting, I’ve had the pleasure to not only photograph Isobella many times, but to also experience Isobella’s incredible ability to adapt her look.  Not only does she photograph beautifully, she is also an incredibly beautiful person. Here’s a collection of my favourite images.

    Isobella
    Isobella…
    And the Isobella who greeted me: Unexpected to say the least!
    my favourite model, Isobella…
    Isobella as I normally see her…
    life

    Still, stagnant water…

    stanley & bear

    It’s that same road again,
    the cycle repeats.
    The scenery never changing,
    it remains cold and bleak.
    At times there is sunshine,
    Rays of hope, light and love.
    The clouds though take over,
    Raining sadness from above.
    Try to find light,
    in the bleak, endless hail.
    Searching for a rainbow,
    To repair what’s now frail
    The darkness, the shadows,
    the whispering thoughts.
    The endless days,
    equating to nought.
    Petalless flowers,
    dry, yellowing grass.
    Still stagnant waters,
    a sad, heavy heart…

     

     

    life

    Dipping toes…

    stanley & bear

    street14©jenhammer copyIt’s good to take risks, don’t you think?

    At the same time, dipping toes into unclear waters is frightening for one can’t see what lurks below the surface.

    But in order to grow, to learn and to embrace the new, risks must be taken.

    Toes should be dipped. For who knows, that unknown water may turn out to be brilliant.

    Crystal clear and filled with endless opportunities offering love, laughter and endless happiness.

    And those ties that hold on to the past?

    They can be released.

    Given permission to float into the yesterdays, taking with them those long held regrets that blanket the todays …

     

     

    life, travel

    In the central highlands of Bali…

    stanley & bear

    A few years ago I came across a site called Workaway: a concept where travellers are offered free accommodation in exchange for hours worked.

    I was a host for some time and now as I’m travelling without any destination in mind, this concept has offered alternatives to regular accommodation.

    I recently stayed in a beautiful 5-star eco-lodge in the central highlands of Bali: all the owners asked for in return was images they could use on social media & websites.

    As a photographer & journalist, it offered a great opportunity to capture this beautiful place nestled high in the hills, surrounded by crystal clear waterfalls.

    Serene, elegant & peaceful…

     

     

    life, travel

    On leaving India…

    stanley & bear

    I love being a silent observer: watching people move through their lives, bearing witness, yet devoid of the need to participate.

    And I love having the freedom to move through life without plans or destinations in mind.

    But I had a plan: a plan to be in India for 12 months, but for reasons difficult to explain my time in India ended, and despite the trials of getting there, leaving is something I am incredibly thankful for.

    Rather than try to understand why it was not be, it can simply be said that I chose to follow my heart and release the weight placed upon me whilst being in India.

    My decision to leave was made quite swiftly and within hours of doing so, I was ascending through the clouds on a Thai Smiles aircraft, leaving India and my unsettled feelings far behind.

    The higher we climbed, the more elevated I felt.

    I’ve always been one to follow my ‘gut’ and from the moment I stepped on Indian soil I felt an indescribable need to flee.  I also felt confusion for I have travelled extensively through 3rd world countries without ever feeling such an intense need to leave.

    I had hoped on arrival at the Animal sanctuary where I was to work, those feelings would melt into the love I could share with the animals. And although the love for the many beautiful beings who called the sanctuary home intensified, unfortunately so did my feelings of dread.  All I wanted to do was run, I don’t know why and I cannot explain, in the end, I simply followed my instincts.

    Trouble is, we broadcast our lives across the pages of social media: I do it, as do many others.  It is not for ‘likes’ or acceptance, it has simply become a way of life. More so for me as a writer and photographer, as I find the opportunity to document fulfilling.

    However the dark side of social media can often raise its venomous head. The need to portray one’s life as perfect –  a life portrayed on the pages can sometimes be quite different from reality. And I probably fell victim to that, for behind the smiles and happy images, in reality I was filled with sadness and dread.

    There were a few exceptions, I did absolutely ADORE Buff the water buffalo – he was simply divine! And I also felt peace with the beautiful Indian family who had warmly welcomed me into their home.

    Their kindness is something I shall never forget: Sagar & Sahill you are truly gems – you made me laugh so much. A post entirely on your comings & goings and funny ways is sure to be in the making.

    But despite my adopted Indian family, as the days lingered, my feelings of dread intensified and I knew in my heart I had to act. But where would I go?

    A number of years ago, I was travelling through Europe and one afternoon whilst strolling through Paris without a destination in mind, I decided to follow the ‘little green man’.

    To explain, when stopped at an intersection, I would simply walk in the direction of the flashing green man ‘walk’ sign. In doing so, I found myself wandering along side streets devoid of tourists, where Parisians adorned bars and cafes with their usual nonchalance and style.

    However not having a little green man to follow in India, I chose the next best thing: Skyscanner’s ‘everywhere’ button.  Once having typed a departure city, Skyscanner gives the option of choosing Everywhere, which brings up countless flights from cheapest to most expensive. And that’s how I ended up in Bangkok – it was cheap and easy to get there and having flown there often as airline crew, I knew it was the hub for numerous other destinations. Once there I used Skyscanner’s ‘everywhere’ again and found myself booked on a flight to Bali.

    And by simply following my heart again, I stayed at the beautiful and tranquil Sarinbuana Eco Lodge, free of charge. In exchange for an incredible villa and meals I simply shot images for their website and social media pages.

    tablesetting3
    HammerPhotography @ Sarinbuana Eco Lodge, Bali

     

    treehousebed3
    HammerPhotography @ Sarinbuana Eco Lodge, Bali

    Tomorrow I head to a villa in Canguu where I shall be spending a couple of weeks dog-sitting 3 fur-babes whilst their Mum heads overseas.

    How is this is all possible?  Through a site called Workaway, I wont go into detail, but click on the link to get more info.  In a nutshell, you do a few hours work a day and in return, you are given accomodation and food.  For me it is not about travelling on the cheap (although it certainly is that) moreover, it’s about having the opportunity to travel and be immersed with local people.

    Unfortunately I will have to leave Bali by 18 Feb as I made a massive faux pas at the airport regarding my visa, but hey, maybe that’s the little green man making my decisions for me.

    Stay tuned…

    yoga1
    @HammerPhotography
    life

    Bargaining for the bucket…

    stanley & bear

    My experience in India went up a notch yesterday.

    Needing to buy a bucket and a case of beer, I set off on the back of a moped with one of the wonderful women from Animal Aid.

    Of course that doesn’t sound out of the ordinary, but when you add a 3 – day old piglet, Julie’s son, a case of beer and 2 very large buckets, it becomes decidedly different.

    I’ll explain.

    The piglet is Maya, brought to Animal Aid 2 days ago traumatised with several puncture wounds, she was part of our moped entourage as she’s currently staying with Julie for rehabilitation.

    So as I shuffled onto the back of the bike, I was handed Maya, who was safely housed in a pink crate similar to a supermarket shopping basket. Carefully placing her on my thigh, whilst my other hand grasped the treasured bucket we set off on our 10 minute ride back to Animal Aid.

    However, I need to complete the picture.

    On the ride back, Julie’s son Max (who’s 5) was perched in front of her with his feet on the treasured case of beer, whilst the other bucket (yes, I neglected to mention that), which was considerably large blue number, was squished in-between Max and the front of the moped.

    It was quite an achievement to manoeuvre (for want of a better word) ourselves and our purchases on one small moped, then scoot along a semi busy road in India.

    But manoeuvre we did.

    Later, as the beer was consumed with friends over candlelight and good conversation, I had the overwhelming feeling that I was in the right place.

    What had started as a bike ride to bargain for a bucket, ended with a night surrounded with like- minded people who shared my passion for animals, and a passion for experiencing all that life has to offer.

    IMG_4887

     

     

    life

    A bittersweet arrival…

    stanley & bear

    As the aircraft descended through a haze of pollution, my first glimpses of Udaipur came into view.  White stucco – like buildings dotted the landscape, and the lakes synonymous with the city, sparkled in the early morning light.

    Purchasing a pre-paid taxi ticket inside the clean, modern airport, I exited to find drivers waiting to be called to take the fare: a site contrary to what I’d expected. In a very orderly manner, one fellow (who may have been the supervisor) took my ticket then gestured to one of the many drivers.  My designated driver nodded respectfully, took my case and motioned for me to follow.

    On the 40 minute drive to Animal Aid, the India I had expected presented itself. Horns blared, cows mooched and people jostled with cars, bikes and truck for the same piece of space on roads and paths. It was manic, yet not frightening or confronting. It was India.

    After passing through the small city, winding roads that carved through small hills deposited us at the gates of Animal Aid, where a cacophony of animal voices alerted me to the fact we had indeed arrived.

    Dogs, donkeys, goats and cows all milled about, some oblivious to my arrival, whilst others inquisitive: sniffing, smooching and seemingly quite interested in finding out just who I was.

    A little later in the day, after being warmly welcomed by the family, I wandered around the shelter meeting the many animals whose lives have been transformed by Animal Aid.

    Helping to feed a group of calves, I felt a gentle but firm nudge on my left thigh.  Expecting to see one of the numerous donkeys who were milling about, I was surprised to find at my side Buff, a baby water buffalo.  Roughly the same size as a small cow, Buff was determined to have my attention and let it be known by continually nudging my arm whenever I stopped scratching behind his ear.

    Who would have thought after leaving Australia feeling excited and also a little sad at the thought of leaving my beloved family that 48 hours later I would be making friends with a water buffalo?

    Afterward as we sat in the garden drinking chilled Pinot Grigio and dining on a delicious lentil curry at twilight serenaded by the sounds of animals, I felt content.

    Similar to my departure, my arrival was bittersweet.  I do feel content and happy, yet also wish I could share this contentment with my best friends: Stanley, Oscar, Simon & Eddie.

    Yes, a bittersweet arrival indeed….

     

     

     

    life

    A bittersweet farewell…

    stanley & bear

    With the arrival of a long-awaited Indian visa, the day of my bittersweet departure has dawned.

    I say bittersweet because I’m torn. Torn between the joy of fulfilling dreams and the pain of leaving behind those who complete my world.

    Max, Rob, Stanley, Oscar, Simon, Eddie & Mum, fill my life with love, laughter and joy: leaving them, albeit temporarily breaks my heart.

    “I feel so selfish,’ I said to Mum this morning. “I desperately want this job in India, but I don’t want to leave you, the boys and the pups”.

    My ‘pups’ are my adored four-legged family and they will not understand. And that breaks my heart.

    A few years ago I went to live in Taiwan for 3 months and I wrote the post,  wish I could speak Dachshund  .  The feelings expressed in that post mirror my feelings today.

    Interestingly enough Oscar, the patriarch of my canine pack is decidedly different today. Normally he is a very chilled, laid back chap who sits alone and simply surveys the day’s events without too much ado. Yet today, he has not let me out of his sight.

    I believe he knows.  Yet he does not appear to be sad, which is comforting as part of me feels he is giving me the reassurance I need.  Letting me know it will be okay, and that I shouldn’t worry. As I write now, I can feel his gentle, rhythmic breathing – it is indeed reassuring and comforting.

    Fast forward a few hours and I am now sitting at the airport waiting for the first on my four flights that will see me finally in India in 48 hours. And whilst I walked out of my door earlier this afternoon with quite a heavy heart, I also left knowing that all will be okay.

    Bittersweet farewells indeed.

    Rob, Oscar, Stanley, Max & Kassie…